I was anxious to get started on my beautiful chartreuse stretch cotton sateen blazer – so anxious that I pattern fit and cut the fabric without a toile. My bad!
I used Simplicity 2446, which has princess seams that go up through the shoulder. This pattern fits everywhere except around the shoulder and arm (think big shoulder pads). The shoulder extends out quite a bit, and there are wrinkles all around the arm as well as the underarm. Plus the sleeve cap didn’t sit nicely in the arm. I couldn’t for the life of me adjust to my satisfaction, even though the pattern provides 1″ seam allowances. With a wool tweed I might have got away with some mis-fitting, but the cotton sateen just accentuates problems.

So I’ve decided to re-cut using Vogue 8087, which is a Claire Shaeffer pattern. When I measured the shoulders on the 2 patterns, the Simplicity shoulder measurement is 6 1/2 while the Vogue is about 5 3/4. Hopefully this pattern will fit better – before I re-cut, I will do a toile to ensure the fit.

Lesson? Always do a fitting shell on pieces that matter.